Day 115 – Under the weather

Over the night I’d woken up several times in shivers or sweats but by the morning I felt slightly better. This Aussie man flu is much worse than the English kind. I dragged myself out with the boys to do some surfing. I didn’t really feel like it but felt bad because they’d gone to the effort of hiring the boards.

I used a 10 foot mal which was  like a bus. I went in a straight line but because it took so long to turn I kept missing waves. I caught one good one and rode it all the way into the beach. No much joy after that and I ended up getting battered by the surf and feeling exhausted. I returned to the beach with my eyes stinging from the onset of a migraine and gave the board to Chris. I passed out until the boys finished.

I spent most of the day on the sofa and after rest and another long sleep I felt better in the early evening. With an hour left with the boards I thought it was worth giving it another go. This time I took the shorted board, still some 8 foot. The tide was going out so the waves were very “dumpy”, meaning that the faces are steep and the wave crashes down quickly. I caught a few but the either dumped me off or I nose dived down the face. Sandy said I was either brave or stupid as I went down one as it was classed as a “day ender” if it had gone wrong. Luckily I was just plain ignorant and was just glad to have caught a wave.

Having enough of getting bashed about I took the board back in and joined Sandy and Higgsy in some body surfing. That evening Chris and Paul headed home. We got fresh fish and chips from the co-op and sat looking over the beach. Just before the sun set we spotted dolphins swimming across the bay. From there we headed to the RSL for a final drink. Higgsy and Sandy hit the pockies (slot machines) and I watched resisting the temptation to burn pineapples (yellow $50 notes). we had a good laugh as the tried to beat the machines. We got speaking to a couple of teachers from south Sydney. Being from the south they got labelled as Shire people by the boys and the two groups started winding each other up, it was pretty funny.

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