Everest day 9 – Laboche to Everest base camp

I opened the curtains to see icicles hanging off the roof. After the usual slow start I ventured outside. The clouds were still low and there a dusting of snow covered the ground. First day in trousers then!

We set off up the trail to Gorak Shep, the last village on the trail. The route looked flat on the map but turned out to be as steep as some of the previous days. We were following the edge of the Khumbu Glacier walking over large rocks and loose rubble.

The weather was grim, cold, snowing and low cloud. There was a little less jeer in our walking conversations as people’s moods seemed to reflect the weather.

We made good time to Gorak Shep, arriving around 10.30. With all the group making good time lunch was brought forward so we could set off for base camp earlier. Whilst we waited I wondered around the surreal landscape surrounding the hostel. A large plain of beach like sand filled the valley and led down to a small lake.

After some pretty good noodles we set out for base camp. I could sense and air of excitement. The trail narrowed as we passed the lake and we had to take care with the increasingly rocky surface. To the right, when the clouds lifted, we got views along the glacier. Large crevasses were clearly visible. Small melt water lakes reflected the whiteness of the ice from their emerald green waters.

Nearing base camp we crossed onto the rock and ice of the glacier. The trail became barely distinguishable but our guide knew it well. Coming to the top of a ridge we had reached the start of base camp. It sits as the last big rubble field before the impressive ice fall. I could see why many rate the crevasse riddled ice fall as the most dangerous part of the climb. As much as I’d have loved to have walked on it I was quite content standing humbly before it and all those who have crossed it.

We did the usual regalia of photos and funny poses before I stepped out to take it all in. I built a small cairn for my dad and gathered a few rocks for friends and family. I can’t say I felt an overwhelming sense of achievement. I should have done as some people really struggled and were rightfully emotional. This trip has been more of a surprise for me; I never thought I’d get to see the majesty of these mountains let alone get to base camp. I finished feeling good and I think this may spur me on to a few more adventures.

Nepalese words of the day:
Bani – water

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